A waistcoat man is forever a bit like a diamond. If the jacket, even the tailor-made jacket, with frequent use tends to spoil and can become out of fashion, a good quality waistcoat will be a faithful ally and will never move from our wardrobe defying trends.

Since ancient times, man has always covered his clothes using fur and woolen cloaks. A habit dictated not only by climatic reasons but above all to express their belonging to a social class. He was always a subordinate, therefore a clear act of servility, the one who helped another to wear his waistcoat.

The models of men’s waistcoats

The history of the waistcoat, as we know it today, begins around the nineteenth century, remaining unchanged almost until the first post-war period. Starting from that date, fashion has undergone further evolution, generating styles and models that can be seen around today. It is interesting to note that most of the models are of peasant or military derivation with the exception of Chesterfield.

A first subdivision can be made between: single-breasted and double-breasted waistcoats. But there are models now codified and that have become part of the history of fashion: the history of the modern waistcoat is outlined.

British Warm

Also called British warm waistcoat is a waistcoat of military origin (although some say it was already present in the nineteenth century) in fact it was used by British officers during the First World War. Originally it was made of thick Melton wool (from the town Melton Mow bray). Features: long below the knee, it can be single or double-breasted, in light colors, large pockets and small pocket, deep lapels and pointed lances, insignia and buttons (number 6) in leather, central back slit, buttons on the sleeves.


It can be single or double-breasted, but the best known model is the single-breasted one. It is very similar as construction to a jacket and has similar characteristics. Chesterfield single-breasted features: in gray herringbone wool; straight or slightly modeled; without belt; knee length or at most 10/5 cm. above; pockets are very similar to those of normal jackets; hidden buttoning; collar applied in black velvet; medium-wide lapels; horizontal pockets cut into thread with flap; small pocket in the upper left side of the chest. The double-breasted model also has a small pocket on the upper left side of the chest. To be avoided over splits and casual wear.